![]() ![]() Very, very efficient and has great shape. In three knots of wind, going three knots upwind. Longtime cruiser Francois Bertheau says, “ I’ve used it twice now and it is beyond my expectations. Even better, you can leave it up and furled with a UV cover. They aren’t just for racers polyester code zeros are “set it and forget it,” which is perfect for cruising. If you are looking to optimize your inventory, having a code sail in the mix is a win-win for sailors of all types. Code sails have a 75% mid girth but are as flat as possible to hit those close reaching angles, so they help fill the gap between upwind headsails and downwind spinnakers. You can also reach higher angles and gain some speed deploying a code. It’s the sail to get you out in 5 or 6 knots. Secondly, they have become a secret weapon for anyone looking to take their sailing to the next level. Why do people love Code Zeros? First off, the name itself sounds cool. That may be a good reason for a bowsprit.THE LATEST OBSESSION: CODE ZEROS A Win-Win Decision in a swell, under autopilot - aka wide groove), good power on a close reach (perforce lower angles), ease of launch & douse, and tight packing.Įxcellent point about your foredeck & the ripping hazard to nylon. My criteria for a light air upwind sail are stability (esp. ![]() The hull, keel, WLL, huge beam aft, and mainsail geometry (not to mention large, rock-star crews) are capable of leveraging a sail like that into forward speed and high angles. 3) PUMA's zero is cut incredibly flat and will stay that way (see point 2), meaning it can have a large LP and still maintain good lift/drag at high pointing angles. You are giving up a fair whack of sail-shaping ability when you choose nylon anyhow as the sail gets larger and squarer, the shape gets lumpier. Bias stretch on a nylon sail that large will, repeat, will cripple upwind performance. It won't stretch and bulge and wrinkle and develop hard seams the way a nylon 160% will. 2) that sail is made of some kind of wicked load path cuben fiber or other laminate. Do that on a cutter, your luff will make a 30 degree angle with your deck and your foot will be longer than your leech. Srsly - that sail works because: 1) the mast is insanely tall, so even a long-footed sail like PUMA's has a reasonably efficient aspect ratio. your boat ain't Il Mostro, and that thar VOR Zero ain't made from anything like nylon. You don't need a whole lot of projection, since it is an upwind sail & won't be in the main's shadow like an asym. On our Ballad, we' be tacking the drifter to an anchor platform about 15" from the forestay. Your cutter's forestay is masthead? FWIW,our drifter strop hooks to a simple bow eye, just inches ahead of the furler. That makes material behind the mast waaay draggy.) Much farther forward than you'd expect for light air - because of the stability & wide groove that provides. (A quirk of Zeros/drifters is draft-forward construction. We like a 145% some people swear by an even higher clew & smaller LP, like 125%. It is more important to keep the sail stable & drawing and gin up apparent wind than to maximize surface area, & too much sail aft is no asset. Likewise, most people opt for an LP under 150%. ![]() Another reason not to let the tack get too far out in front: a drifter generally has a fairly high clew, and this combined with a shallow luff angle would make the sail's cut & attack angle funky. Might even consider hoisting your Zero/drifter inside your foresail makes tacking it easier, and it will still be in plenty clear air. ![]() You already have a big foretriangle to work with. If your boat is a cutter, you may not need a bowsprit - or not much of one, anyhow. This would be my ideal sail wardrobe (plus stormsails) for a wide range of sailing conditions.ĭoes anybody has ideas on how long should be a bowsprit for a boat like mine? For downwind I will need an asymmetrical (call it gennaker, call it whatever) and for reaching a flat genoa. My small jib is not enough with less than 8 knots so I need a fore sail to hoist and douse quickly on passage for light airs. Rig and sails are perfect for windy offshore conditions, I don't need to reef early and I have different combinations available, and I have it tested well in 35+ kts. #RIGGING A CODE ZERO SAIL PLUS#I need such a sail because my boat is a cutter and I usually carry a roller furling 110% yankee jib plus staysail and mainsail. But there are so many names (Code 0, code 1, drifter, wind seeker some people call it gennaker) that is hard to look around for it as anyone has a different name and idea about it. And this is exactly what I am looking for, a 160% unstayed nylon genoa to hoist on a bowsprit forward of my jib for reaching in light airs. ![]()
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